We started at Stockport on the afternoon of Sunday 1 September, where very strange things were going on: it appeared that the overhead power lines were turned off between Stockport and Manchester Piccadilly, requiring all trains to be 'dragged' by a diesel over this 6 mile section. The picture above shows 47 635, possibly the last surviving EWS Class 47/4, about to be detached from an up train.
Exactly which train was which was hard to determine: while 47 635 was being detached, a second London-bound train arrived in Platform 1 behind 47 810 Porterbrook. Both trains had their electric locomotive already attached at the rear as is normal. Pity the passengers on these trains, who still faced a bus trip between Milton Keynes and Hemel Hempstead before reaching London. We became concerned that our Wales and Borders train to Shrewsbury would be delayed by all this, eating in to the one hour available for a meal at Shrewsbury, but in the event our departure was on a few minutes late on the booked time of 14:31.
The W & B train (terminating at Shrewsbury with onward bus connections due to engineering works) was allowed an hour for a non-stop run from Stockport to Crewe rather than the normal hour, which seemed puzzling. The puzzle was solved when we took the left-hand line at Cheadle Hulme and ran through Macclesfield to stop in the through line at Stoke-on-Trent station. After waiting for an all-stations Central Trains service to Crewe to depart ahead of us, we then reverse and retraced our path all the way to Kidsgrove before taking the route via Alsager to Crewe, where we had to reverse again before arriving at Shrewsbury just a minute or two late on the booked arrival time of 16:18. Just time to walk up the hill to the Deep Pan Pizza establishment, but a takeaway, and eat it in the sun on a nearby bench before returning for the 17:20 train to the Cambrian Coast, the last train of the day as far as the Pwllheli line is concerned.
This train was formed of two two-car 158 units, and is shown in the printed timetables, as having portions for the Aberystwyth and Pwllheli lines, but there was no information to this effect on display, although when I asked the driver he advised us to sit in the rear two cars. Later, when the guard was asked by passengers, the guard said he could not be sure that any coaches were going through to Pwllheli, but he would be told on the radio at Talerddig and would announce then what would happen ... and indeed we were told at Talerddig that Aberystwyth passengers should move to the front two coaches. Which of course raises the question of how you know which coach you are in! This all seems very strange, since the whole point of through coaches is that you sit in the right one from the beginning.
Anyway, back to the Cambrian Coast circuit, and here's a view of Tywyn, the first passing station after heading north from Dovey Junction, with two trains about to cross. North of Dover Junction the line is worked by the Radio Electronic Token Block (RETB) system, which requires no fixed signals except point indicators, and the crossing loop points are all sprung so that trains can train through them without any need for an operating mechanism. Tywyn also has a siding controlled by a ground frame which can be seen in the picture.
Tywyn is the terminus of the narrow-gauge Talyllyn Railway, whose Wharf terminus is a short walk from the main line station. A ride on this very friendly little line is heartily recommended; here locomotive 2 Dolgoch, which entered service in 1866 although much-rebuilt since, awaits departure. This side of the loco carries the name Pretoria, which it apparently carried at the time of the Boer War.
Arrival at the Talyllyn's Nant Gwernol terminus, starting point for some very interesting woodland walks with added industrial archaeology; the winding drum for the rope-worked incline which carried the wagons beyond here remains intact with its associated braking mechanism.
Back on the Cambrian Coast Line, and its most famous landmark, Bont Y Bermo or the Barmouth Bridge, seen here with 158 844 on the 11:54 Barmouth - Machynlleth. A pathway runs along the landward side of the bridge, which crosses the estuary of the Mawddach river ...
... and here's your author; having paid his 70p toll, crossing on an excellent bicycle hired from the very helpful man at the nearby 'Birmingham Garage.'
The old railway track from Morfa Mawddach at the south end of the bridge towards Dolgellau, closed in the 1960s, is now a track for walkers, horses and cycles, known as the Mawddach Trail, seen here at Penmaenpool where the old signalbox and a signal have been retained as relics. On the left is the Penmaenpool toll bridge and on the right the George III hotel which makes a good destination or refreshment stop for cyclists.
Barmouth bridge seen from a thoughtfully-provided viewpoint on the Barmouth side, with the Barmouth lifeboat on its station alongside. The Cader Idris mountain range forms the backdrop.
The view towards the town from the same point. Since operation of the Cambrian lines were transferred from Central Trains to Wales and Borders Trains in 2001, all services have been worked by Perkins-engined Class 158s in the batch 158 844 - 862, transferred from Central and retaining the garish Central Trains livery except for a Wales and Borders name vinyl. The 153s and 156s which once shared the services have now been transferred away.
158 854 departs from Barmouth, pushing its way through the sprung points south of the station.
Barmouth has a reputation as a 'sandcastle and bingo' resort for the people of the Midlands, but there is more to it than this - the old town clings to the hillside, and above is Dinas Oleu, which was the first property ever purchased by the National Trust, from where this aerial view was taken showing all the 110 arches of the bridge.
North of Barmouth the line takes to the sea wall, frequently battered by high winds and tides.
In rather better weather, a train formed of 158 844 departs from the request stop at Llanaber.
Porthmadog, as well as being a pleasant town with good shops, has three railway stations. As well as the main station on the Cambrian Coast route, there is also the Welsh Highland Railway (Porthmadog) station and the Harbour station (shown here with locomotive Linda) of the Ffestiniog Railway. The true circular tour continues by Ffestiniog train, but as the morning train from Machynlleth arrives at the interchange station at Minffordd ten minutes after the FR train has left, we had to content ourselves with an Arriva Cymru bus from Barmouth to Blaenau Ffestiniog.
Here is Blaenau Ffestiniog in the rain, with 153 367 forming the 11:43 to Llandudno. These single-car trains often show themselves inadequate for the traffic on this line, the small luggage area on this one struggling to contain a bicycle, a baby in a pushchair and six large backpacker rucksacks.
Llandudno Junction, where the Old Station Hotel opposite the station does a good line in lunchtime refreshments including very reasonable priced sandwiches which come with chips and a portion of salad, and Marston's Pedigree on draught. The 13:43 Holyhead - London, powered by 43 007 and 43 123, approaches the station pas the signalbox and through the bridge carrying the A55 expressway.
The next leg of our journey was by the 14:02 Holyhead - Birmingham, one of the very few Class 47-hauled trains now remaining in Britain, seen entering Platform 3 at Llandudno Junction - a boon for anyone not travelling as trains in Platform 3 can easily be photographed from Platform 4 opposite.
Our last picture shows the same train on arrival at Crewe where we changed to yet another 158 for the run to Stockport. The locomotive is 47 726 Manchester Airport Progress.
We hope you have enjoyed this report. There are many more things to see and do around the circuit, and for much more information about how to make the journey we recommend Dave Sallery's website.